Los
Glaciares National Park in Argentina is situated in the
Patagonia region on the border with Chile.
In fact, the border is not clearly demarcated at the north end of the
park (check out Google maps) due to an unresolved border dispute. The snow cap in the park and in the adjoining
park in Chile is the 3rd largest repository of fresh water in the
world (after Antarctica and Greenland) and has many glaciers that can be seen
easily by tourists. The glaciers, along
with the hiking trails in the park were the reason we came – not the birds
(which is a good thing because there weren’t many!).
On Tuesday
Feb. 26, we flew from Ushuaia to El Calafete.
Our itinerary was to view some glaciers near El Calafate and then travel
a bit further north to do some hiking. The checklists suggested that Magellanic Plover and Gray-breasted Seedsnipe were a possibility but my realistic targets were
Magellanic Woodpecker and Andean Condor.
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Reserva Municipal - Laguna Nimez |
Upon
arriving at our hotel in El Calafate, I was delighted to discover that there
was a reserve just 800 m from the hotel.
With nothing scheduled for the afternoon, Barb and I walked down to the
reserve – Laguna Nimez. It turned out to
be a great place with a small lagoon bordering Lago Argentina. The first birds we saw were Black-faced Ibis.
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Black-faced Ibis |
Continuing around the perimeter of the lagoon, we soon encountered Patagonia Mockingbird, Long-tailed Meadowlark and Chiloe Wigeon.
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Long-tailed Meadowlark |
The reserve had higher water levels than normal and some of
the trails and all of the shorebird habitat was under water (so little hope of the Magellanic Plover and seedsnipe). Still, we enjoyed the walk around the lagoon
and, for me, the highlight was a Plumbeous Rail hiding in the reeds – its
metallic-looking bill was spectacular!
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Plumbeous Rail |
We took a bus tour to the national park to view the Perito
Moreno Glacier – in the park we took a boat to within 250 m of the glacier’s
edge and then spent the afternoon on a ridge opposite the glacier. The views were incredible; the birding was
not. However, I did get two lifers – a distant
view of 2 Chilean Flickers and a fly-by of a Magellanic Woodpecker.
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Perito Moreno Glacier |
The next day, we visited two other glaciers by boat – the Upsala
and Spegazzini glaciers. Once again, the views
were fantastic and the birding non-existent –7 hours on the boat and I did not
see a single bird!
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Spegazzeni Glacier |
We then journeyed to El Chalten by bus and spent 3 days
hiking in the mountains. Based our first two days in the park, I was resigned to a paucity of
birds. We did hike through some nice forests and saw some birds though not many new ones. Even though we were only at 400
m, Andean Condors were common in the area.
At first, I only had distant views but finally one crossed the valley at
low altitude (perhaps it thought I was dying after a 15 km hike!) and I finally
got a decent look.
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Andean Condor |
The other birding highlight was the Magellanic
Woodpecker. It turned out to be one of
the most common birds in the mountain forests and usually allowed a close
approach.
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Magellanic Woodpecker |
Perhaps the highlight of our Argentina travels (though they
are not yet concluded) was the views we had of Mount Fitz Roy and the
surrounding mountains.
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Our group in front of Mount Fitz Roy |
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Cerro Torre |
In conclusion, the scenery was great but the birding quiet (perhaps due to the late summer timing?). Still, I managed to find 18 life birds (most at the Laguna Nimez).
From Patagonia, our next stop is Iguazu Falls in the
northeast corner of Argentina.
Hi Brian, fantastic bird shots as always - wow a frame filler of Magellanic Woodpecker - that's got to be worth at least 20 Furnariids !
ReplyDeleteThat scenery is awesome too - you're both in for a treat at Iguazu as well...I'm sure you know, but avoid weekends if at all possible.
You should get loads of lifers in the area - lots of hummers, Great Dusky Swifts diving through the water, and Brazilian Cavies and South American Coatis to boost the mammal list !
Already looking forward to the next installment.
Cheers, Steve.